The Complete Travel Guide to Florence, Italy

Ah, Florence. As far as cities go, it’s the full package: history, art, food, wine, architecture… No trip to Italy is complete without a stop here. Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance movement and a cultural cornerstone in Italy.

I spent a summer studying abroad here in college, and I jumped at the chance last fall to return with my husband to show him around. It’s a place where I could return to over and over, and it only gets better the more time I spend here.

View from the Ponte Vecchio

When to visit

March – May or September – November

Like most of Europe, summer is peak season in Florence so it’s best to visit at another time if possible. By visiting in shoulder season you’ll find better weather, fewer crowds, and more favorable rates for lodging. Also many buildings are not air conditioned, so another reason to avoid the summer months.

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How to get there

Italy’s train system is excellent, and Florence is easily accessible by high-speed train from most cities in Italy.

From Rome, take the Frecciarossa to Firenze Santa Maria Novella station on the quick one hour train ride — just long enough to enjoy the beautiful ride through Tuscany and the free espresso that comes with your train ticket.

Florence is a very walkable city, and you’ll likely be able to walk from the train station or take a quick Uber to where you are staying.

Views of Palazzo Vecchio and the Ponte Vecchio from the Uffizi Gallery

Where to Stay

Airbnb is the perfect way to immerse yourself in Florence, as the city is filled with spacious, airy apartments often with large terraces. I’d recommend using the Duomo as your landmark, then working out from there. New to Airbnb? Here’s $40 off your first stay.

The view from our Airbnb

If you’d prefer to venture outside of the traditional tourist zone, stay on the opposite side of the Arno River, or the Oltrarno, in the Santo Spirit neighborhood. The area has many bars and restaurants but is still within walking distance of the major attractions.

What to Do

The Cathedral & the Baptistry

Kick off your visit to Florence at the Florence Cathedral. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and its dome, “the Duomo,” dominate the landscape of the city, making it one of the most recognizable skylines in the world.

Climb to the top of the Duomo for some amazing views of the city. Reserve your ticket in advance, as the lines can be quite long. Warning, this is not for the claustrophobic!

The Florence Cathedral & Bell Tower

Don’t miss the famous doors of the Baptistery, nicknamed the “Gates of Paradise” by Michelangelo. The east-facing bronze doors are considered to be one of the groundbreaking works that launched the Italian Renaissance. Fun fact – all Florentines were baptized here up until the 19th century.

Watch sunset at Piazza Michelangelo

For the best views of the city, head over to the Oltrarno (the “other” side of the Arno River) and hike up to Piazza Michelangelo to watch sunset. Vendors are set up selling snacks and drinks, musicians play on each corner and the people watching is on point.

Sunset at Piazza Michelangelo

The Museums – Art aficionado or not, the Renaissance began in Florence and it’s sinful to not go to at least one museum while you’re here.

The Uffizi Gallery – This museum houses the bread and butter of the Italian Renaissance. If you’ve only got time for one museum, this is your best bet. It’s home to Sandro Boticelli’s most famous works, Spring and The Birth of Venus, Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation, and Caravaggio’s Medusa. I’d recommend downloading Rick Steve’s audio tour prior to your visit, as it will walk you through the Reader’s Digest version of the museum.
The Accademia – Another can’t miss stop in Florence. Make a bee-line for the David with the rest of the tourists and admire one of Michelangelo’s greatest works. Don’t have time to visit the Accademia? There are copies of the David all over the city.

The Uffizi Gallery – A copy of Michelangelo’s David at Piazza Michelangelo

Pro Tip: Reserve your ticket to the Uffizi and the Accademia in advance. Your timed entry to the museum will allow you to skip the line. Visit in the afternoon for a more enjoyable experience, as most tour groups visit the museums in the morning.

Another pro tip: Still have your student ID from college laying around? Bring it with you to buy the student admission ticket at fractions of the price! Not that I’ve tried it…

Pitti Palace & Boboli Gardens – Don’t miss the expansive gardens and opulent palace, located in the Oltrarno area. They say that the gardens of Versailles are modeled after Boboli, so you know it’s going to be good! The lush grounds are a welcomed respite from the chaos of the city. Only have time for one? My advice is tour the gardens and enjoy the palace from the exterior.

Palazzo Vecchio – City hall during the Renaissance and former home to the Medici family, Palazzo Vecchio embodies the grandeur of the period and is a great complement to your visit to the Uffizi.

Interior views of Palazzo Vecchio

Take a day trip – Florence is the centrally located in Tuscany, and is the perfect jumping off point for many day trips. Here are a few excursions that I’d recommend:

Cinque Terre – The über-photogenic national park is located 2.5 hours from Florence by train. Leave early morning and take the train to Monterosso via La Spezia, and hike the trail along the Italian Riviera through five picturesque villages. Be sure to wear your walking shoes, and bring a bathing suit!
Explore the many towns in the greater Tuscany area – A few of my favorites are Siena, Verona, San Giomignano, Cortona… the list goes on. Local trains and buses run frequently from Santa Maria Novella station.
Visit a vineyard in Tuscany – Immerse yourself one of the world’s greatest wine regions on a day trip from Florence. Explore a centuries-old wine producer, ride through a vineyard on horseback, and eat a home-cooked meal at a castle. Check one of the many tours through Viator who can make all of this happen.

Where to Eat

Florence is one of those cities where there are so many great restaurants, it can almost be overwhelming. Do a little planning ahead and make a reservation or two.

Osteria del Gatto e la Volpe – Meaning “the cat and the fox”, this casual eatery is the perfect lunch or dinner spot amongst your day of sightseeing. You can’t go wrong here – the thought of their homemade bread and balsamic vinegar is worth the trip to Florence alone. I digress… Try the gnocchi al pesto, the pasta de la casa, or the pizza of your choosing. It’s all good!

Try the seasonal special at il Gatto e la Volpe, like these pear, walnut and mozzarella tartines they featured on our trip last fall.

Il Santo Bevitore – Translating to “the Holy Drinker,” don’t miss this for a traditional Tuscan meal with a romantic ambiance. Be sure to leave time beforehand to check out it’s sister wine bar next door, Il Santino, and its surrounding trendy Santo Spirito neighborhood.

Trattoria Il Latini – Come to Il Latini for that Florentine steak you’ve been dreaming about. This place is the real deal: prosciutto dries hanging from the ceiling, the tables are community-style, and a line forms around the block. Make a reservation!

Florentine steak at Il Latini that could feed a small country

Trattoria Sabatino – This gem in the Oltrarno is like stepping back in time… back to when school children eat out for lunch mid-day, a hearty meal costs only 4 euro, and the menu is printed straight from a typewriter. Ask them what’s good today, and order that.

Trattoria Mario – This place gets packed, so arrive early for an amazing lunch near the San Lorenzo market.

La Pizzeria del Tamero – A delicious pizzeria located in the Oltrarno, come here for dinner then enjoy the live music at the bar in the back.

Grom – Just a stone’s throw away from the Duomo, Grom is in my opinion the best gelato in all of Italy. Be sure to order the crema di Grom, the house specialty, a creamy mix of biscotti and chocolate chips.

Need some more options? Check out Eater for the latest hot list of bars and restaurants, and here are a few other spots that came highly recommended by locals that we didn’t have a chance to make it to… Another reason to come back!

Boccadarno – For fresh seafood and a great wine selection, check out Boccadarno near the Boboli Gardens, which came highly recommended by our Airbnb host.

Antico Vinaro – Drop in for a sandwich at lunchtime in the Santa Croce neighborhood.

La Fonticine – For Florentine steak for lunch or dinner near the San Lorenzo market.

Where to Drink

Manifattura Tabacchi – This cocktail bar in the heart of Florence will transport you back to the Gatsby era. The bartenders are in white tie, the cocktails are strong and the music is on point. Stop here for a cocktail or two after your dinner at il Latini.

MAD Souls & Spirits – Check out this craft cocktail bar in Santo Spirito after your dinner at Il Santo Bevitore.

Locale – This authentic palazzo was recently restored and reopened as an elaborate bar and restaurant. Words can’t do this place justice, just go. The bar has a lush but elegant greenhouse feel to it, and the basement level from the 12th century has been restored to its medieval glory and converted into a wine and dining area. For dinner, make a reservation at the restaurant on the main level, which is a luxurious Renaissance paradise. While it’s not budget by any means, it’s well worth the visit for the ambiance and unique culinary and cocktail concoctions.. Locale, you had me at your avocado mezcal cocktail.