Budapest might just be one of the most underrated cities in Europe.
It feels a little like Paris – beautiful baroque architecture, bustling squares, the opera – but less gentrified. There’s a certain grit about the city, the result of a place that has survived hardships, fallen monarchies and a Nazi occupation.
I’ll be honest – when we first booked our trip here, we knew nothing about the city. With that came zero expectations, and after spending two weeks here we were hooked.
So what’s the deal with Budapest? Why should you go, and what’s waiting for you when you get there?
Stick around for everything you need to know before visiting my new favorite city.
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The Essentials
When to Visit
The locals say that Budapest has two seasons: summer and winter. Spring and summer are very hot, and fall and winter are quite cold.
For warm weather, decent hotel rates and lighter tourist crowds visit Budapest between April and June, or in September. We visited in July during peak European holidays, but even then it didn’t feel like the madhouse that is many other European hotspots this time of year.
Budapest is also a fantastic place to experience the classic European Christmas markets – head here in December for a cozy holiday destination.
Allow yourself three nights to take it all in.
Overlooking Parliament and Fisherman’s BastionHow to Get Around
Budapest is a very walkable city, but lean on the extensive bus and metro system when you need to reach the farther corners of the city.
Uber unfortunately was outlawed in Budapest a few years back. We found the taxis here to be quite pricey, but if you do need one in a pinch be sure to negotiate the rate prior to the trip.
The Currency
Hungary has held out on converting to the euro and maintains their own currency, the forint (HUF). The exchange rate dances somewhere around $1 USD to 278,039 forints… Even if mental math is your thing, keep your currency conversion app handy.
I’ll be honest – the forint feels a bit like monopoly money to me, but the moral of the story is your money goes far here in Hungary. A nice meal with wine goes for about half of the price that it does in the States.
Ornate Baroque buildings line the streets in Kalvin Ter and Varosliget
Where to stay
Pest vs. Buda
The story of Budapest is also the tale of two cities: Pest and Buda. Separated by the Danube River, each operated independently until 1873 when they joined together to form the city we know and love today.
Each side of the city has a distinct personality. Buda is hilly, and Pest is flat. Buda is the old world, and Pest is the new age. Buda has castles, Pest has, well… All the fun stuff.
Stay on the Pest side to get the best of both worlds. Explore Buda during the day, then immerse yourself in the amazing restaurants and nightlife of Pest at night.
Cafes along the lively Raday Street, a quiet square in Kalvin Ter
The Neighborhoods
While there are many great hotel options in the city center, my advice would be to live like a local for a few days and rent an apartment on Airbnb. New to Airbnb? Here’s $40 off your first rental!
Or if a hotel is more your speed, click here to see availability for hotels in Budapest.
The Jewish Quarter – For a central location in the heart of the Budapest restaurant, bar and overall cultural scene, look no further.
The 8th District – For a low-key local vibe in an excellent location, stay in Kalvin Ter.
What to See + Do
Explore the classic Budapest sights
Views of the Szechenyi Chain Bridge, the funicular at Buda Castle, and the striking facade of the Parliament building
Take a walking tour – Brush up on everything from the Magyars to the Habsburgs by taking a tour of the city. There are many free tours in Budapest, with our favorite being this one.
Széchenyi Chain Bridge – An icon of Budapest, it was the only bridge not destroyed during the Nazi occupation of WWII. Walk across the bridge and take the funicular up to the Castle District.
Buda Castle – The entire Castle District on the Buda side of the river is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Check out the former palace of the Habsburgs, now the Hungarian National Gallery. For picturesque views of the Pest side, walk the grounds of the castle.
Striking architecture at Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church
Fisherman’s Bastion – A UNESCO world heritage site, this former nautical lookout feels like Hogwarts meets Notre Dame. Arrive in the early morning or early evening for the best lighting, minus the heavy crowds.
Heroes’ Square – Witness an important monument to the Hungarian people on your way to the Szechenyi Baths.
The Hospital in the Rock – Skip the Labyrinth at Buda Castleand head here to explore the eerie WWII hospital turned secret Cold War bunker.
Relax in the thermal baths
You can’t leave Budapest without a visit to one of the many thermal baths in the city. Hungary’s location on a fault line is to thank for its naturally occurring thermal waters.
A tradition spanning for centuries, spending a day at the baths is something in between a spa and a waterpark. You could literally spend the whole day here – most have everything from spa treatments to a full restaurant and bar.
The classic Szechenyi Baths are a must-do in BudapestThere are many thermal baths throughout the city, but here are my top picks:
Szechenyi Baths – The largest and most popular, head here for the classic Budapest baths experience. Arrive early to beat the crowds, and don’t miss the old men playing chess board in the pool outside.
Gellért Baths – The Roman-style bath often takes the top spot in the rankings of the best baths in Budapest.
Rudas Baths – Think Ottoman era design with rooftop with views of the Danube River.
Watch the city come alive at sunset
Watching the skyline of Budapest illuminate at sunset is one of the best ways to take in the beauty of the city. Situate yourself at one of these iconic spots at sunset:
The Citadel – For birds-eye views of the city, Buda Castle and the Danube River, hike up to the Citadel to catch the sun set and the city light up.
The Szechenyi Chain Bridge – For prime people watching and a front row seat to sunset at the Bridge of Chains, head to one of the pop-up bars at the foot of the bridge on the Pest side of the Danube.
Fisherman’s Bastion – For an epic view of Parliament and the Danube’s bridges, watch sunset here. Also rumor has it they stop charging admission here in the early evening.
Epic sunset views from the Citadel and the Bridge of ChainsVisit the Ruin Bars
The ruin bars of Budapest are unique to the city and put the typical dive bar to shame. Built in half-destroyed buildings from WWII, these establishments embraced the destruction instead of covering it up.
You’ll find the ruin bars nestled in the Jewish Quarter. The most famous is Szimpla Kert – their Sunday farmer’s market is not to be missed.
Eclectic interiors at Szimpla Kert
Pay your respects to the Hungarian Jews of the Holocaust
While these days the Jewish Quarter is the center of youth and culture, during WWII the area was a forced ghetto for Budapest’s Jewish citizens. Take a Jewish Legacy tour and witness the numerous monuments to honor the Jews who died during the Holocaust
Be sure to visit the Shoes on the Danube, located about halfway between Parliament and the Bridge of Chains. 60 pairs of cast iron shoes line the boardwalk where Jews were lined up and shot into the Danube River in the winter of 1945. This powerful memorial stopped me in my tracks and is a must-visit for anyone who comes to the city.
The Shoes on the Danube, Heroes’ Square
Relax on Margaret Island
Like a Central Park in the center of Budapest, head to Margaret Island for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city. Explore it on bike or on foot, and stop off for a drink at one of the beer gardens along the way.
View of the Castle District from Szechenyi Chain Bridge, street scenes in the Jewish Quarter
Where to Eat
Now on to the important stuff… The food!
Budapest is home to some of the most delicious and affordable food that I’ve encountered in Europe. The ingredients are fresh and the cuisine is hearty.
There are cities where you can walk into the restaurant of your choosing and don’t need a reservation. Budapest is not one of those cities. Even if there are tables available, because most everything is fresh restaurants just enough food for that day’s guests. Plan ahead and book tables in advance.
For Lunch or Dinner
Frici Papa – Nestled in the Jewish district near the Opera House, this is the perfect spot to try traditional Hungarian cuisine like chicken paprikash, potato soup with sausage and fried cauliflower. The dishes are prepared fresh daily and the prices appear to not have increased in 20 years.
Dobrumba – For Moroccan fusion with a pinch of Hungarian, head to Dobrumba in the Jewish district. After being turned away twice in person and once via Facebook Messenger, we finally broke through and got a coveted table here on our final night in Budapest. I don’t know how or why, but it was one of the best meals we’ve had throughout our European summer travels. The paprika hummus, roasted cauliflower, and beef shawarma are things dreams are made of. Did I mention you’ll need a reservation? 😉
Dreamy interiors at Mazel Tov, delicious mezze at Dobrumba
Mazel Tov -For Israeli fusion with a next level ambiance, look no further than Mazel Tov in the Jewish Quarter. A brass band kicks out classic hits like Moon River while serving creations like lavendar spritz’s and a cool turn on chicken shawarma. Be sure to reserve online in advance to avoid the line.
Pest-Buda Bistro -Head here for elevated Hungarian food like stuffed cabbage and pork shoulder. It’s the perfect lunch spot to drop into after checking out Fisherman’s Bastion.
Cafe Intenso – For modern takes on classic Hungarian dishes in Kalvin Ter.
Pho 18 – When you’re ready for a break from the goulash and paprikash, head here for fresh Vietnamese on Raday Street.
Breakfast + Snacks
New York Cafe – This Budapest institution first opened in 1894, but fell into disrepair during WWII. After being used as a sporting goods store for years, it was restored to its original glory in 2004. For the ultimate experience, splurge on the breakfast buffet (includes champagne!) while you’re serenaded by classic rock hits on the piano. Make a reservation to avoid the line.
Budapest Bagel – I once read in a magazine that eating a bagel is like eating seven slices of bread, and I’ve lived in fear of the baked good ever since. Budapest Bagel in Kalvin Ter is worth making an exception for… The Kosher egg and avocado on sesame seed bagel is out of this world.
The New York Cafe is a Budapest icon and the perfect spot for Sunday brunch
Kaffeine – Anywhere that serves cold brew coffee in a wine glass is worth seeking out in my book.
Fat Mama – For a hearty breakfast in the Jewish District near Szimpla Kert.
Ruszwurm Cafe – Opened in 1827, this small cafe is said to be the only building on the Buda side that was completely spared from damage during World War II. Drop in here for an espresso after exploring Fisherman’s Bastion. Order the cottage cheese strudel… Just trust me.
Views of the Danube River from the Citadel
Budapest has a little something for everyone, and I hope that this guide helps you to explore this incredible city… Or inspires you to add it to your next European adventure!
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You ought to mention the Gerbaud cafe, if it’s still around, I think in Vorosmarty Ter. Ah, I can still taste the pastry in my mouth, from many decades ago!
So very interesting! It brought back great memories of when I was there…but I learned so much much more from you! Keep enjoying!
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