Italy Archives - The Longest Weekend https://thelongestweekend.co/tag/italy/ everywhere to go, and nowhere to be Mon, 09 Sep 2019 18:57:30 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1.2 159131720 Lake Como Itinerary: How to Spend an Amazing Weekend on Lake Como, Italy https://thelongestweekend.co/2019/09/05/lake-como-itinerary/ https://thelongestweekend.co/2019/09/05/lake-como-itinerary/#comments Thu, 05 Sep 2019 20:01:40 +0000 https://thelongestweekend.co/?p=3420 Hot off of my summer trip to Italy, I’m sharing everything you need to know to create an amazing Lake Como itinerary. Lake Como has been a playground for the rich and famous for centuries, dating back to the times of the Romans. George Clooney, Richard Brandon, Brad Pitt… It seems that every A-lister has...

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Taking in the view from Villa Carlotta on Lake Como, Italy
Taking in the view from Villa Carlotta

Hot off of my summer trip to Italy, I’m sharing everything you need to know to create an amazing Lake Como itinerary.

Lake Como has been a playground for the rich and famous for centuries, dating back to the times of the Romans. George Clooney, Richard Brandon, Brad Pitt… It seems that every A-lister has a summer villa on Lake Como, and every year visitors flock from all over the globe to spend their holidays.

So what could possibly be so great about this particular lake?

Growing up in Florida, I’ve never really been much of a lake person – the ocean’s always been more my speed. So I wanted to see for myself what all the fuss was about – would Lake Como live up to the hype?

Cruising Lake Como in a classic riva with a view of the village of Bellagio, Italy
Living la dolce vita on the waters of Lake Como, Italy

Short answer – yes.

Imagine the landscape of the Swiss Alps, the villas and architecture of the Amalfi Coast, plus the food and hospitality that’s so iconic to Italy. Rugged mountains meet a clear, glacier lake that’s more than a thousand feet deep with pastel-colored villages peppering its coastline.

Lake Como is the real deal, and our trip here far surpassed all of my expectations.

And the best part – unlike many other Italian hot spots, on Lake Como there is not a cruise ship in sight. This sound like an obvious statement, but compared to Lake Como’s coastal counterparts this benefit is not to be overlooked.

Of course there are tourists, yes, but not the mass groups following an umbrella-holding tour guide who’s whispering into a microphone.

Lake Como is just difficult enough to get to – thus it’s maintained its exclusivity and charm, in spite of its reputation as a bucket list-type destination.

Are you intrigued? In this Lake Como itinerary I’ve laid out how to experience the best of what it has to offer.

Regardless of which village you stay in, this itinerary will allow you to explore the the main villages in the area over the course of a nice, leisurely weekend.

So pour yourself a spritz, relax and read on for the skinny on how to plan a trip to Lake Como…

Lake Como Itinerary: How to Spend an Amazing Weekend on Lake Como, Italy

Day One: Explore Varenna and Tremezzo
Day Two: Explore Bellagio and Villa Balbianello
Everything you need to know to plan an amazing Lake Como itinerary.

Lake Como Travel Essentials

How to Get to Lake Como

Lake Como is located in Northern Italy, tucked at the foot of the Swiss Alps. Visiting Lake Como is an easy day trip from Milan, but I’d recommend spending at least a night or two here to get the full experience.

From Milan, the easiest option is to take the train from Milano Centrale to either Varenna-Esino or Como San Giovanni, depending on your final destination. Trains run hourly and tickets cost around 5 Euros – for the timetable and tickets click here.

If you prefer to have your own set of wheels, rent a car at the airport in Milan, then drive the hour plus to Lake Como. While renting a car will give you flexibility to see some of the further-reaching areas of the lake, be mindful that you’ll have to deal with pricey and limited parking in many of the villages.

READ MORE: A Weekend Guide to Milan, Italy

Exploring a small town on the shores of Lake Como, Italy
Exploring the quaint town of Sala Comacina

Where to Stay in Lake Como

Lake Como is shaped like an upside-down “Y,” with its unique geography giving it some of the longest stretches of shoreline out of anywhere in Europe.

The majority of visitors to Lake Como stay in one of four towns – Bellagio, Varenna, Tremezzo or Como. There are many other smaller villages along the lake that are lovely, but you will need a rental car as the ferries only run to the main towns.

Map of the villages of Lake Como
Map Credit: Lake Como Homes

After much debate and research on where to stay in Lake Como, we landed on Varenna for the home base for our three night trip. Overall we found Varenna to be a lively but relaxed, less touristy alternative to the neighboring village Bellagio.

Varenna is centrally located on Lake Como, and it’s also super accessible – both to get to Varenna and to visit the other villages.

The colorful town of Varenna on the shores of Lake Como, Italy
The colorful town of Varenna on the shores of Lake Como, Italy

Varenna is home to the main train station on the lake, thus making it a straight shot to Lake Como from Milan. Varenna is also home to an excellent ferry port – with shuttles leaving in all directions to the other villages on the lake, it’s an excellent jumping off point to explore the area.

We fell in love with the Hotel Villa Cipressi in Varenna, and I would highly recommend it for your Lake Como holiday. The various buildings in the historic complex were built between the 15th and 19th centuries – think Old World charm meets modern amenities.

Click here to view hotels in Varenna

The beautiful interior of Villa Cipressi in Varenna, Lake Como, Italy
The beautiful interior of the Hotel Villa Cipressi in Varenna

The best part – Villa Cipressi’s dreamy lakefront gardens and terrace provided the perfect backdrop to start and end our day.

If renting an apartment is more your speed, check out one of the many Airbnb’s in the area. New to Airbnb? Here’s $40 off your first listing.

A beautiful panoramic view from the botanical gardens of Villa Cipressi in Varenna, Lake Como, Italy
The botanical gardens of Villa Cipressi in Varenna

How to Get Around Lake Como

Once you’ve arrived, the easiest way to get around Lake Como is – you guessed it – on the lake.

Lake Como’s ferry system runs between the villages, transporting you both efficiently and scenically across the lake. The Mid Lake Shuttle runs between Mennaggio, Varenna, Bellagio, Tremezzo and Lena. Tickets are 4.50 Euros each way – click here to see the route and timetable.

Only have time for a day trip to Lake Como? Check out these tour options through GetYourGuide:

Lake Como Itinerary: Day One

Morning – Hike to Vezio Castle

There are so many things to do in Lake Como that you’ll want to get an early start to your day. So lace up your sneakers – it’s time to burn off some pasta and go on a hike!

Lake Como’s unique position at the foot of the Alps yields stunning scenery from all angles. By kicking off your visit with a hike, you’ll get a chance to take in the full picture of the striking scenery of the area.

From Varenna, follow the signs for Castello di Vezio and hike up the 1.2 mile trail.

Door-to-door, the hike takes about 30 minutes from Varenna to Castello di Vezio. I’d recommend setting out in the morning before the day’s heat sets in.

A stunning panoramic view of Varenna and the glacial waters of Lake Como, Italy.
Views well worth the hike above Varenna

Once you’ve reached the castle you’ll be rewarded with incredible panoramic views of the mountains, the vibrant glacial lake and the colorful villages that line its coast.

Castello di Vezio has stood for more than one thousand years and once defended the Lombardy region from invaders.

Today you’ll not only find some of the best views of the area, but also a falconry training center and even life-size, papier-mâché ghosts that decorate the castle in the summer months.

Papier mache ghosts decorate the grounds of Vezio Castle in Varenna, Italy
Watch out – Castello di Vezio is “haunted” in the summer!

After exploring the grounds and taking in the views at Vezio Castle, head back down into Varenna.

Visit the famed Villa Monastero, or stroll past the Church of San Giorgio. Continue down towards the water along Varenna’s picturesque promenade, the Passeggiate Degli Innamorati – “the Lover’s Walk.”

The Church of San Giorgio looks over the main town square of Varenna on Lake Como
The beautiful Passeggiate Degli Innamorati, the "Lover's Walk," promenade lines the waterfront in Varenna
The Church of San Giorgio on the main square in Varenna, The “Lover’s Walk” lines the waterfront

Afternoon – Explore Tremezzo

After you’ve freshened up from your hike, grab a quick bite to eat and hop on the ferry to the village of Tremezzo.

Tremezzo was one of our favorite villages that we visited and is not to be missed on any Lake Como itinerary. As far as Lake Como goes, this place is uber-glamorous – and that’s saying something.

Get off the ferry at the first stop for Tremezzo and you’ll arrive at the fabulous Villa Carlotta. This 17th century masterpiece is now a museum, and it’s well worth a visit to walk through the botanical gardens.

Exploring the botanical gardens of Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo, Lake Como, Italy
Exploring the botanical gardens of Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo

After you’ve explored the grounds of Villa Carlotta, head next door to the amazing Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This iconic hotel is the epitome of Lake Como luxury, and the ambiance feels like you’re transported to a Wes Anderson film set.

Don’t miss catching a glimpse of the Grand Hotel Tremezzo’s floating swimming pool, then treat yourself to a splurge-worthy cocktail with a view at the T Bar.

The floating swimming pool at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on Lake Como, Italy
View of the floating swimming pool from the T Bar at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo

While it feels like you could stay forever, be sure to watch the time! The last ferry from Tremezzo leaves at 6:40 p.m., which we missed! Don’t be like me – check the ferry schedule in advance here and head back to Varenna in time to catch sunset.

Grab a table by the water for dinner with a view at Bar Il Molo. Despite it’s location in the heart of Varenna’s tourist zone, this spot is worth a visit for its great pizza, live music and even better sunset view.

A magical sunset in the village of Varenna on Lake Como, Italy
A magical sunset in the village of Varenna

Lake Como Itinerary: Day Two

Morning – Explore Bellagio

Grab a cappuccino and a croissant, then catch the ferry to the Pearl of Lake Como – the picturesque village of Bellagio. This postcard-worthy town epitomizes the Italian lake district, and it’s a mandatory stop on any Lake Como itinerary.

Wander along the waterfront then up through cobblestone streets and alleys of the village… Emphasis on up – Bellagio, like many villages on the lake is built on the hill, so be ready to climb some stairs!

Exploring the bustling waterfront is a crucial stop on any Lake Como itinerary.
Enjoying a cup of gelato in Bellagio on Lake Como, Itlay
The bustling waterfront of Bellagio, Indulging on gelato

The town of Bellagio itself is fairly small and has only one main road – Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, which you can explore easily on foot. Grab a gelato, then get lost in the many shops and winding alleyways.

If you’re into shopping, this is the place – you’ll find boutiques with handbags, shoes, ceramics… You name it, they’re selling it here. Also much to my surprise, Lake Como is known for producing some of the world’s finest silk, which you’ll find for sale in all forms around town.

For some of the best photo opp’s in Bellagio, head to the top of the Principle Staircase and the Salita Antonio Mella for the classic “I went to Lake Como” shots.

Exploring Bellagio, the Pearl of Lake Como

Once you’ve taken in the town, head to the gardens of Villa Melzi, or stroll down to Punta Spartivento, the point at the end of the peninsula where Lake Como forks in two. Take in the view here or grab a bite to eat at the restaurant on the point.

READ MORE: The Complete Travel Guide to Florence, Italy

Afternoon – Take a Boat Tour of Lake Como

Following your morning exploring the town of Bellagio, fulfill your 1950’s Italian movie fantasies and take a boat tour of the lake in a vintage Riva.

The boat tour was truly a highlight of our trip to Italy – while the excursion wasn’t cheap, it was a very memorable experience that was the icing on the cake of our trip to Lake Como.

Cruising Lake Como on a boat tour on a classic riva is one of the best things to do in Lake Como.
Living la dolce vida on a classic Riva

Most boat tours leave from Bellagio, so this is the perfect spot to jump on one and explore some lesser-accessible areas of the lake.  

We had a fantastic experience with Bellagio Water Limousines. Their small group boats take you on a cruise across Lake Como to a small village for lunch, then to the iconic Villa Balbianello for a guided tour.

Visiting the iconic Villa Balbianello is an essential stop on any Lake Como itinerary.
Arriving by boat to Villa Balbianello

Does the villa look familiar? The grounds of Villa Balbianello were famously featured in Casino Royale and Star Wars: Episode II Attack of the Clones.

The villa’s movie appearances aren’t the only appeal – it’s interior and history are equally impressive. Originally a Franciscan monastery built in the 13th century, it was later converted into a villa that was passed down through the ranks of the wealthy Visconti family.

The villa’s most recent owner, Count Guido Monzino, led the first Italian expedition to Mount Everest. Don’t miss his fascinating collection of memorabilia from his travels upstairs.

Thinking of having your wedding here? Get in line – allegedly there is a two-year waiting list for weddings!

The infamous domed tree on the lawn at Villa Balbianello on the shores of Lake Como, Italy
The infamous domed tree on the lawn at Villa Balbianello

Evening – Aperitivo, Sunset & Dinner

Still basking from your afternoon boating on the Lake, wander through Bellagio for aperitivo before taking the ferry back to Varenna.

Once the sun sets, head to an intimate dinner at Borgovino. This seven-table restaurant tucked down a winding alley serves up local classics like spaghetti with lake fish and their very own secret pasta – don’t ask, just order it.

What to Pack for Lake Como

Like many places in Italy, you’ll want to step the dress code up a notch in Lake Como.

Think comfortable dresses and sandals for exploring during the day, as well as a sun hat for some shade as you’re boating on the lake. For evenings you’ll feel comfortable in a dress or jeans and nice top, but word to the wise – stick with flats, as the villages are very hilly!

Exploring the quaint architecture of a small village on Lake Como, Italy
Exploring the town of Sala Comacina

Shop my favorite travel essentials here:

While the climate Lake Como is mild, don’t forget you are still in the Alps. Though it’s typically warm during the summer months, be sure to bring a pashmina for the evenings as it can get chilly.

If you see rain in the forecast, don’t fret – the Italians are notoriously on the pessimistic side with their weather forecasts! A 90 percent chance of rain could turn out to be just a small shower, like we experienced on our visit last June. I’d also recommend tossing a small umbrella and rain jacket into your suitcase just in case.

Enjoying an aperol spritz and the view at Villa Cipressi on Lake Como
Enjoying a spritz on the terrace of the Hotel Villa Cipressi in Varenna

Lake Como is a place that truly lived up to the hype, and it far exceeded my expectations. I hope that you’ve found this Lake Como itinerary to be informative and inspiring for your future travels!

Have you been to Lake Como? If so, what was your favorite part about it? Share below in the comments, or if there is anything that I missed I’d love to hear your tips!

Cheers and happy travels,

Meredith

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2 Days in Milan: How to Spend a Weekend in Milan, Italy https://thelongestweekend.co/2019/08/07/2-days-in-milan/ https://thelongestweekend.co/2019/08/07/2-days-in-milan/#comments Wed, 07 Aug 2019 22:02:20 +0000 https://thelongestweekend.co/?p=3027 Fresh off of my most recent trip to Italy, I’ve created this travel guide to help you maximize two days in Milan. In my opinion, Milan is one of the most underrated cities in Italy, and maybe even in Europe. It seems that Milan is often skipped on most Italian vacation itineraries, overshadowed by its...

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Walking by the Duomo in Milan, Italy
Early morning at the Duomo

Fresh off of my most recent trip to Italy, I’ve created this travel guide to help you maximize two days in Milan.

In my opinion, Milan is one of the most underrated cities in Italy, and maybe even in Europe. It seems that Milan is often skipped on most Italian vacation itineraries, overshadowed by its flashier counterparts like Florence and Venice.

But maybe that’s what I liked so much about the city.

The bustling Piazza del Duomo in Milan, where the Galleria, Duomo and entire city intersect.
The entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele meets the Duomo in one of Milan’s busiest piazzas

Milan is a big city, a business hub and a fashion mecca, yet in many ways it still feels like a small town.

Outside of the main squares you’ll find quaint neighborhoods lined with cobblestone streets, cafes and antique shops, and everyone seems to know each other.

Finding treasures like this antique map of Italy at Leonardo da Vinci's Vineyard in Milan, Italy
An antique map of Italy at La Vigna di Leonardo

I’ll be honest, it took me four trips to Italy to make it to this end of the boot, but Milan blew me away and exceeded all of my expectations.

The history, the art, the aperitivo… I loved it all.

Curious about what makes the city so special?

Read on to find out how to maximize a two days in Milan, and why I wish I’d visited sooner.

2 Days in Milan: How to Spend a Weekend in Milan, Italy

Where to Stay in Milan

Like most big cities, there is a wide variety of accommodation in Milan for every type of traveler and budget.

Decide first where in the city you’ll want to base yourself – I’d use the Duomo as a central landmark, then work out from there.

Click here to view hotels and apartments in Milan

Cafes and shops line the streets in Brera, a trendy neighborhood in Milan, Italy
The cafe-lined cobblestone streets of Brera

The Brera neighborhood is centrally located in the city and within a quick walking distance to all major attractions. Brera is home to many cute restaurants, shopping and bars, so it’s the perfect area to base yourself for your two days in Milan.

The Fashion District is another great area to stay, as it’s also home to many hotels. It’s clean, safe and very centrally located, positioning you perfectly for exploring the city.

Exploring the cobblestone streets of the Fashion District in Milan, Italy
An evening stroll to dinner in the Fashion District

Things to See & Do in Milan

There is so much to see and do in the city, and two days in Milan allows just enough time to experience the major hot spots.

The Duomo

A little trivia question for you – what is the largest church in Italy? Hint: it’s not the Vatican, as Vatican City is actually a country.

The answer: the Duomo of Milan. The cathedral took six centuries to build, and it’s spectacular from every angle.

Visiting the beautiful Duomo in Milan, Italy
Avoiding the pigeons at the Piazza della Duomo

Set your alarms – Milan is a city where you won’t regret waking up early. Start your day in Piazza del Duomo to take in the square and get your photos before the crowds descend.

Visit the Duomo’s rooftop terrace for a bird’s eye views of the city. For tickets to the Duomo and the rooftop, check out these options here:

 

A bird's eye view from the Duomo in Milan, Italy
Exploring the rooftop of the Milan Duomo is one of the best things to do in Milan, Italy
Views from the rooftop terrace of the Duomo

I recommend visiting the rooftop either first thing at 9 a.m. when they open or in early evening for sunset. While the last entrance normally is at 6 p.m., it stays open until 8:30 p.m. in the summer months.

As you can imagine, the cathedral’s interior is also beautiful. However if you’re tight on time (and I might burst into flames for saying this), I’d opt for just visiting the rooftop.

Pro Tip: Beware of the dress code! Like most churches in Italy, you must have your shoulders and knees covered to enter both the church and to go up to the rooftop. We witnessed a few crop tops and jean shorts get turned away. Don’t be that girl.

READ MORE: The Complete Travel Guide to Florence, Italy

The Galleria

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is an icon of Milan. Named for the first king of Italy, back in the day it was the place to see and be seen, earning its nickname as “the lounge of Milan.”

These days it’s the oldest open shopping mall in Italy and a must-see when visiting the city.

Wandering the beautiful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

While normally I avoid shopping in tourist hotspots like the plague, the Galleria is the ultimate place for some window (or real, depending on your budget) shopping.

Browse the designer flagship stores, or for something a little more eclectic check out the vintage bookstore on the end facing the Duomo.

The domed ceiling and intricate facades of the Galleria in Milan.
The intricate glass dome of the Galleria

If a good photo is what you’re after (I mean, aren’t we all), head here around 8 a.m. before you start your day. With exception to the local businessmen walking through here on the way to work, you’ll have the Galleria just about all to yourself.

Check out the crests of the four capitals of the Kingdom of Italy – Milan as the flag with the cross, Florence as the lily, Rome as the she-wolf and Torino as the bull.

Spinning around three times on the famous bull mosaic in the floor of the Galleria in Milan, Italy is said to bring good luck.
The legendary bull mosaic in the Galleria’s floor is said to bring good luck to those who spin three times on it’s… you know 😉

As tradition goes, stand on the bull’s man-parts and spin around three times and you’ll have good luck. So many people do this, that the tiles have to be replaced annually.

The Galleria is also magical at night. The building is beautifully illuminated, and with all of the tourists at dinner it’s another a great time to visit without the crowds.

Da Vinci’s Last Supper

If you’re in Milan, it’s downright sinful to not make a pilgrimage to see Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper.

Regardless of how many photos you’ve seen, I challenge you not to shed a tear, or at minimum get chills, when you see it up close.

Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper is truly breathtaking.
The Santa Maria della Grazie church is home to Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper.
Leonardo’s masterpiece in the Santa Maria della Grazie

However if you want to see Leonardo’s masterpiece, you’ll need to hop to it and buy your tickets now. The tickets go on sale directly through the Santa Maria della Grazie church about three months in advance, but they get snatched up right away by tour operators.

So if you don’t hit the Cenacolo lottery, fear not – book your tickets through a city tour package, like one of these options:

Leonardo’s Vineyard

The Last Supper wasn’t painted in a day, and while da Vinci was at work he would relax in the evenings at a nearby villa that you can visit today.

Your admission to La Vigna di Leonardo includes an audio tour of the grounds and a glass of wine, which always sweetens the deal.

Leonardo da Vinci's Vineyard in Milan is worth a visit on a weekend trip. While the artist was painting his masterpiece The Last Supper, he would spend time at this villa in the evenings, and it has recently been restored and reopened to the public.
The courtyard of the villa at La Vigna di Leonardo

Piazza della Scala

If you walk through the Galleria away from the Duomo, you’ll hit Piazza della Scala, one of the most iconic squares in Milan.

The statue of Leonardo da Vinci dominates the piazza, and the surrounding architecture is some of the most beautiful in the city.

Milan pays homage to Leonardo da Vinci throughout the city, including at Piazza della Scalla where his statue dominates the square.
A tram car passes in front of the La Scala opera house in Milan, Italy
The statue of Leonardo da Vinci at Piazza della Scala, the old tram crossing in front of La Scala

Piazza della Scala is also home to the world-famous opera house, Teatro alla Scala. Attend a performance, or if sitting through several hours of singing in Italian isn’t your idea of a good time, you opt for just the tour of the interior.

Sforza Castle

Sforza Castle, the Castle of Milan, dates back to the Visconti family in the 14th Century. Pictures truly don’t do this place justice – it’s massive, domineering and feels like it belongs in an episode of Game of Thrones.

The massive courtyard of the Sforza Castle in Milan, Italy
The dominating interior of Sforza Castle

Today Sforza Castle is home to many museums, but it’s also free to walk the grounds.

Pro Tip: Most city walking tours will take you here, so if you’re already doing one to see The Last Supper there’s no need to make the extra trip.

Go Shopping

While I typically am not a big shopper, this all goes out the window in Milan. If you’re going to shop, this is the place, so set aside some time to wander through the fashion district.

Head to the Quadrilatero d’Oro, Milan’s “golden quadrilateral,” and wander through quiet cobblestoned streets, the designer boutiques and antique stores.

The Fashion District in Milan is a mecca for all things shopping, featuring flagship stores for top designers, luxe antique stores and quaint cafes.
The picturesque avenues of the Fashion District

Take a Day Trip to Lake Como

Milan is an easy jumping-off point for the lakes of Northern Italy, including the fabulous Lake Como. While I’d recommend spending at least one night here, it’s definitely feasible to make a day trip out of it thanks to the quick one-hour train ride.

Take a morning train from Milano Centrale to Varenna, then hop on the ferry and explore the towns of Bellagio or Tremezzo. Return to Varenna and be back in Milan in time for dinner.

Exploring the dreamy town of Bellagio on Lake Como in Italy
Exploring the town of Bellagio in Lake Como

Where to Eat & Drink in Milan

You’ll be hard-pressed to find a bad meal in Milan – this is Italy, after all. While there are countless delicious restaurants in the city, here are my top picks for where to eat and drink throughout your two days in Milan:

For Lunch & Snacks

Peck

Peck – the grocery so nice, we went here twice! Tucked on a quiet street near the Duomo, this gourmet food store and café offers freshly-sourced meats, cheeses and pastas in every shape and form. After lunch, head downstairs to the vast wine cellar for a tasting.

If you’re looking for that obscure, aged bottle of balsamic vinegar to bring home to your foodie-loving friend, you’re in the right place.

A foodie's heaven at Peck gourmet grocery in Milan, Italy
A foodie's heaven at Peck gourmet grocery in Milan, Italy
Peck’s gourmet grocery making my foodie dreams come true

La Rinascente

Can’t decide what you want for lunch? Head to the food market on 7th floor of La Rinascente on Piazza del Duomo.

This Harrod’s-esque department store has a little bit of everything, in its best possible form.

Enjoying a light lunch at one of the restaurants with a view of the Duomo at la Rinascente in Milan, Italy.
A light lunch of bufala mozzarella and vegetables with a view of the Duomo at la Rinascente in Milan, Italy.
The food hall at la Rinascente in Milan, Italy offers treats of every shape and kind.
The food hall at La Rinascente is the perfect lunch spot to break up a busy day of sightseeing

Grab a table on the terrace at Obicà Mozzarella Bar for a front row view of the Duomo, then indulge on a bite of the chocolate-dipped candied fruit at the Antoniazzi candy counter.

Luini

You can’t leave Milan without a trip to Luini for panzerotti!

What is panzerotti, you might ask? Imagine a calzone and an empanada got together and had a bambino… It’s heaven. Lean into it – you are in Italy after all!

The Milanese classic panzerottis at Luini in Milan, Italy
No trip to Milan is complete without a trip to Luini for Panzerotti.
A mob of a line forms outside of Luini… Gimme panzerotti, please!

Tucked in the shadow of the Duomo and Galleria, head to Luini for a snack or quick lunch. Just make sure to arrive before noon to beat the lunch rush – this place gets packed.

Starbucks Reserve

I know what you’re thinking. “Starbucks for coffee? Groundbreaking.”

Italy held out for years against letting in the world’s largest coffee company, so when Starbucks finally opened their first Italian location in Milan in 2018 they went all out.

Housed in the old post office, the Reserve Roastery feels a bit like a Disney attraction. I wouldn’t go out of your way to visit, but if you happen to be in the area it’s worth walking in.

READ MORE: The Complete Travel Guide to Paris, France

For Aperitivo

Much to my chagrin, the Milanese take happy hour very seriously.

When the golden hour hits, the entire city heads to outdoor cafes for pre-dinner cocktails. Sip on an Aperol spritz, people-watch and enjoy the spread of (free!) snacks that will magically appear with your drink order.

Enjoying an Aperol Spritz for aperitivo at the Four Seasons in Milan, Italy
A splurge-worthy aperitivo at the Four Seasons

While there are countless spots to indulge in my favorite Italian tradition, here are a few I’d recommend checking out:

L’Ombra de Vin

Part wine cellar, part gourmet bistro, I’Ombra de Vin in Brera is perfect for a lively aperitivo.

Snag a table by the street, or sample meats and tapas downstairs in the wine caverns for a more intimate vibe.

Wine cellar meets bistro at L'Ombra de Vin in the Brera neighborhood of Milan, Italy.
The wine cellar at L’Ombra de Vin in Brera

The Navigli

No trip to Milan is complete without a visit to the Navigli district, and aperitivo is the perfect time to go.

At one point, Milan was home to five canals – one that even linked the city to Switzerland. Though today only the Naviglio Grande remains, you’ll find a thriving nightlife scene centered around the waterway.

The Navigli district in Milan is home to the city's only remaining canal.
The Naviglio Grande is the last remaining canal in Milan, and today is a hotspot for nightlife

Wander along the canal and stop for a drink at one of the many outdoor bars and cafes in the Navigli.

While there are probably better areas of the city for dinner, this is the perfect spot to walk around, grab a cocktail and watch sunset.

The Courtyard at the Four Seasons

Pop into the Four Seasons for a splurge-worthy cocktail in the hotel’s garden courtyard. Built in a restored 15th century monastery, the hotel’s aperitivo will provide a welcomed respite from the city.

The courtyard at the Four Seasons in Milan, Italy is something that dreams are made of. Converted from a restored 15th century monastery, it's the perfect spot for a splurg-y lunch or aperitivo.
The Four Seasons Milan is in a restored monastery from the 15th century, and its courtyard is the perfect spot for lunch or aperitivo

Mio Lab

For a modern aperitivo with a twist head to the swanky Mio Lab in the Park Hyatt, located adjacent to the Galleria.

Their cocktail menu will impress even the most avid mixologists, and I’m still dreaming about their saffron-encrusted marcona almonds.

Enjoying a cocktail for aperitivo at the Park Hyatt in Milan, Italy
A lively aperitivo at the Park Hyatt Milan

For Dinner

There’s no early-bird special in Milan – everyone here eats late! Aim for a 9 p.m. dinner reservation so you don’t have to rush your aperitivo.

Stendhal

Located in Brera just across the street from l’Ombra de Vin, Stendhal took the cake as one of our of our favorite meals of the trip.

Stendahl serves up a modern twist on traditional Milanese in a bright, but intimate ambiance. Don’t miss the local showstoppers like stuffed zucchini flowers with pesto and ossobucco with saffron risotto.

Dining on typical Milanese cuisine of stuffed zucchini flowers and bufala mozzarella at Stendahl in Milan, Italy
Ricotta-stuffed zucchini flowers with basil pesto at Stendhal

Camillo Benso

For a casual dinner in central Milan, head to Camillo Benso. The art-deco decor paired with the homemade classics like eggplant melanzane and fire-roasted pizza make this an easy choice after a long day of sightseeing.

Camillo Benso’s sister restaurant, Fresco & Cimmino, also comes as a highly recommended option near the Duomo.

The dreamy art-deco interior of Camillo Benso

What to Pack for Milan

Like most places in Italy, the attire in Milan is relatively formal and conservative. As the city is not only a business but a fashion capital, I’d recommend stepping up your dress from the typical shorts and t-shirt travel uniform.

Exploring the beautiful rooftop terrace of the Duomo is a must-do when visiting Milan.
Keeping in dress code on a hot summer day at the Duomo

If your two days in Milan happens to fall in the summer, beware that it can be very hot. I’d recommend a flowy sundress and comfy sneakers (like my new fave travel shoes, Cariuma’s) for sightseeing during the day.

Also because the dress code for the churches requires women to cover your shoulders and knees, make sure you either have sleeves on your top or have a scarf handy.

Shop my favorite travel dresses

For the evenings, you’ll fit right in wearing a nicer dress or jumpsuit with heels or sandals. I also always recommend packing a pashmina in the event it gets chilly.

As far as accessories go, you’ll be happy to have packed a sun hat for a bit of shade. I’d also recommend wearing a small backpack to carry water, your camera with room for any potential shopping purchases you pick up along the way.

Shop my favorite travel accessories

Oh Milan, you had me at buongiorno. There is so much to see and do in two days in Milan, and I hope that this guide has inspired you to add it to your next Italian itinerary!

Have you been to Milan? If so, how did you like it?

Cheers,

Meredith

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The Complete Travel Guide to Florence, Italy https://thelongestweekend.co/2018/06/30/travel-guide-to-florence-italy/ https://thelongestweekend.co/2018/06/30/travel-guide-to-florence-italy/#comments Sat, 30 Jun 2018 06:47:39 +0000 http://box5494.temp.domains/~thelonu6/?p=790 Ah, Florence. As far as cities go, it’s the full package: history, art, food, wine, architecture… No trip to Italy is complete without a stop here. Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance movement and a cultural cornerstone in Italy. I spent a summer studying abroad here in college,...

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Ah, Florence. As far as cities go, it’s the full package: history, art, food, wine, architecture… No trip to Italy is complete without a stop here. Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance movement and a cultural cornerstone in Italy.

I spent a summer studying abroad here in college, and I jumped at the chance last fall to return with my husband to show him around. It’s a place where I could return to over and over, and it only gets better the more time I spend here.

View from the Ponte Vecchio

When to visit

March – May or September – November

Like most of Europe, summer is peak season in Florence so it’s best to visit at another time if possible. By visiting in shoulder season you’ll find better weather, fewer crowds, and more favorable rates for lodging. Also many buildings are not air conditioned, so another reason to avoid the summer months.

Pin me for later!View of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy | The Longest Weekend Blog

How to get there

Italy’s train system is excellent, and Florence is easily accessible by high-speed train from most cities in Italy.

From Rome, take the Frecciarossa to Firenze Santa Maria Novella station on the quick one hour train ride — just long enough to enjoy the beautiful ride through Tuscany and the free espresso that comes with your train ticket.

Florence is a very walkable city, and you’ll likely be able to walk from the train station or take a quick Uber to where you are staying.

Views of Palazzo Vecchio and the Ponte Vecchio from the Uffizi Gallery

Where to Stay

Airbnb is the perfect way to immerse yourself in Florence, as the city is filled with spacious, airy apartments often with large terraces. I’d recommend using the Duomo as your landmark, then working out from there. New to Airbnb? Here’s $40 off your first stay.

The view from our Airbnb

If you’d prefer to venture outside of the traditional tourist zone, stay on the opposite side of the Arno River, or the Oltrarno, in the Santo Spirit neighborhood. The area has many bars and restaurants but is still within walking distance of the major attractions.

What to Do

The Cathedral & the Baptistry

Kick off your visit to Florence at the Florence Cathedral. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and its dome, “the Duomo,” dominate the landscape of the city, making it one of the most recognizable skylines in the world.

Climb to the top of the Duomo for some amazing views of the city. Reserve your ticket in advance, as the lines can be quite long. Warning, this is not for the claustrophobic!

The Florence Cathedral & Bell Tower

Don’t miss the famous doors of the Baptistery, nicknamed the “Gates of Paradise” by Michelangelo. The east-facing bronze doors are considered to be one of the groundbreaking works that launched the Italian Renaissance. Fun fact – all Florentines were baptized here up until the 19th century.

Watch sunset at Piazza Michelangelo

For the best views of the city, head over to the Oltrarno (the “other” side of the Arno River) and hike up to Piazza Michelangelo to watch sunset. Vendors are set up selling snacks and drinks, musicians play on each corner and the people watching is on point.

Sunset at Piazza Michelangelo

The Museums – Art aficionado or not, the Renaissance began in Florence and it’s sinful to not go to at least one museum while you’re here.

  • The Uffizi Gallery – This museum houses the bread and butter of the Italian Renaissance. If you’ve only got time for one museum, this is your best bet. It’s home to Sandro Boticelli’s most famous works, Spring and The Birth of Venus, Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation, and Caravaggio’s Medusa. I’d recommend downloading Rick Steve’s audio tour prior to your visit, as it will walk you through the Reader’s Digest version of the museum.
  • The Accademia – Another can’t miss stop in Florence. Make a bee-line for the David with the rest of the tourists and admire one of Michelangelo’s greatest works. Don’t have time to visit the Accademia? There are copies of the David all over the city.

The Uffizi Gallery – A copy of Michelangelo’s David at Piazza Michelangelo

Pro Tip: Reserve your ticket to the Uffizi and the Accademia in advance. Your timed entry to the museum will allow you to skip the line. Visit in the afternoon for a more enjoyable experience, as most tour groups visit the museums in the morning.

Another pro tip: Still have your student ID from college laying around? Bring it with you to buy the student admission ticket at fractions of the price! Not that I’ve tried it…

Pitti Palace & Boboli Gardens – Don’t miss the expansive gardens and opulent palace, located in the Oltrarno area. They say that the gardens of Versailles are modeled after Boboli, so you know it’s going to be good! The lush grounds are a welcomed respite from the chaos of the city. Only have time for one? My advice is tour the gardens and enjoy the palace from the exterior.

Palazzo Vecchio – City hall during the Renaissance and former home to the Medici family, Palazzo Vecchio embodies the grandeur of the period and is a great complement to your visit to the Uffizi.

Interior views of Palazzo Vecchio

Take a day trip – Florence is the centrally located in Tuscany, and is the perfect jumping off point for many day trips. Here are a few excursions that I’d recommend:

  • Cinque Terre – The über-photogenic national park is located 2.5 hours from Florence by train. Leave early morning and take the train to Monterosso via La Spezia, and hike the trail along the Italian Riviera through five picturesque villages. Be sure to wear your walking shoes, and bring a bathing suit!
  • Explore the many towns in the greater Tuscany area – A few of my favorites are Siena, Verona, San Giomignano, Cortona… the list goes on. Local trains and buses run frequently from Santa Maria Novella station.
  • Visit a vineyard in Tuscany – Immerse yourself one of the world’s greatest wine regions on a day trip from Florence. Explore a centuries-old wine producer, ride through a vineyard on horseback, and eat a home-cooked meal at a castle. Check one of the many tours through Viator who can make all of this happen.
Where to Eat

Florence is one of those cities where there are so many great restaurants, it can almost be overwhelming. Do a little planning ahead and make a reservation or two.

Osteria del Gatto e la Volpe – Meaning “the cat and the fox”, this casual eatery is the perfect lunch or dinner spot amongst your day of sightseeing. You can’t go wrong here – the thought of their homemade bread and balsamic vinegar is worth the trip to Florence alone. I digress… Try the gnocchi al pesto, the pasta de la casa, or the pizza of your choosing. It’s all good!

Try the seasonal special at il Gatto e la Volpe, like these pear, walnut and mozzarella tartines they featured on our trip last fall.

Il Santo Bevitore – Translating to “the Holy Drinker,” don’t miss this for a traditional Tuscan meal with a romantic ambiance. Be sure to leave time beforehand to check out it’s sister wine bar next door, Il Santino, and its surrounding trendy Santo Spirito neighborhood.

Trattoria Il Latini – Come to Il Latini for that Florentine steak you’ve been dreaming about. This place is the real deal: prosciutto dries hanging from the ceiling, the tables are community-style, and a line forms around the block. Make a reservation!

Florentine steak at Il Latini that could feed a small country 

Trattoria Sabatino – This gem in the Oltrarno is like stepping back in time… back to when school children eat out for lunch mid-day, a hearty meal costs only 4 euro, and the menu is printed straight from a typewriter. Ask them what’s good today, and order that.

Trattoria Mario – This place gets packed, so arrive early for an amazing lunch near the San Lorenzo market.

La Pizzeria del Tamero – A delicious pizzeria located in the Oltrarno, come here for dinner then enjoy the live music at the bar in the back.

Grom – Just a stone’s throw away from the Duomo, Grom is in my opinion the best gelato in all of Italy. Be sure to order the crema di Grom, the house specialty, a creamy mix of biscotti and chocolate chips.

Need some more options?  Check out Eater for the latest hot list of bars and restaurants, and here are a few other spots that came highly recommended by locals that we didn’t have a chance to make it to… Another reason to come back!

Boccadarno – For fresh seafood and a great wine selection, check out Boccadarno near the Boboli Gardens, which came highly recommended by our Airbnb host.

Antico Vinaro – Drop in for a sandwich at lunchtime in the Santa Croce neighborhood.

La Fonticine – For Florentine steak for lunch or dinner near the San Lorenzo market.

Where to Drink

Manifattura Tabacchi – This cocktail bar in the heart of Florence will transport you back to the Gatsby era. The bartenders are in white tie, the cocktails are strong and the music is on point. Stop here for a cocktail or two after your dinner at il Latini.

MAD Souls & Spirits – Check out this craft cocktail bar in Santo Spirito after your dinner at Il Santo Bevitore.

Locale – This authentic palazzo was recently restored and reopened as an elaborate bar and restaurant. Words can’t do this place justice, just go. The bar has a lush but elegant greenhouse feel to it, and the basement level from the 12th century has been restored to its medieval glory and converted into a wine and dining area. For dinner, make a reservation at the restaurant on the main level, which is a luxurious Renaissance paradise. While it’s not budget by any means, it’s well worth the visit for the ambiance and unique culinary and cocktail concoctions.. Locale, you had me at your avocado mezcal cocktail.

The bar and cellar at Locale

Where is the one city you could go back to over and over again? Share in the comments below!

Cheers,

Meredith

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The Complete Travel Guide to Florence, Italy | The Longest Weekend Blog

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